In 1967 I was a stroppy, love-struck
teenager. That year I went on a school
cruise around the Mediterranean. My
boyfriend was good looking. Far too good
looking for me. Before the ship left I asked a friend to keep an eye on him. And she did.
So much so that when I got back, she was his girlfriend and I was
history. Ah well.
Most of the cruise was wasted on me – I was
far too busy being the tragic heroine torn from the arms of her one true
love. We visited Tunisia (hot, dusty and
leery men), a Greek Island (no idea which one), Ephesus (ruins) and Venice
(canals). The long days and nights on
board were spent reading and re-reading the gorgeous boy’s one letter to
me. Looking back, I’m surprised he knew
how to write – gorgeous, yes, but not bright.
So when Andy and I went to Venice in March
this year, it was as if I’d never been before.
And it was beautiful. Truly
beautiful. We arrived at the tail end of
Carnivale, of which I knew nothing. All
these people in spectacular costumes and masks gliding around and graciously
posing for photographs. Amazing.
We visited art galleries, strolled over
bridges, ate pizza and pasta, waded through the floods at high tide (Andy
bought plastic galoshes, I took off my shoes and paddled through), took water
buses and photographs galore.
I have no idea how I managed to ignore its
allure the first time I was there – the only excuse I have is that I was 14,
and didn’t know any better.
Snapshots of Venice at Twilight
The sky is turning red over Santa Maria della
Salute.
Street vendors begin to pack stalls;
trundle cheap wares
up tiny alleys; head home for pasta.
Beside the bell tower a couple in bridal
costume, remnants
of Carnivale, strike poses for photographers.
A girl with autumnal hair and distant eyes
weaves
through crowds, not seeing the Bridge of
Sighs,
familiar as wallpaper.
Two women stand close to a closed Museum
door, fingers
tracing words, working out the meaning.
Tourist boats wait for dawdling hoards,
hooting
impatience to be on, to be gone, hurry
up! A clutter
of Japanese girls suddenly runs, startled
from chatter.
Outside the Danieli gondoliers cover boats,
gather
together, hats tilted, sharing cigarettes
and stories.
An old woman, bent in half, trudges a shopping
trolley
over another interminable bridge, as a
young man, naked
to the waist, throws open shutters, leans
out into the twilight,
sated, glorious.
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